![]() Top and bottom of window sash door frames attic hatches and inoperable windows. Nonporous, closed-cell foam, open-cell foam, or EDPM (ethylene propylene diene monomer) rubber. Manufacturing process produces greenhouse gas emissions. Very visible.Ĭlosed-cell foam attached to wood or metal strips.ĭoor or window stops bottom or top of window sash bottom of door.Įffective sealer, scored well in wind tests, rigid.Ĭan be difficult to install must be sawed, nailed, and painted. All-wool felt is more durable and more expensive. Do not use where exposed to moisture or where there is friction or abrasion. Low durability least effective preventing airflow. Seals best if staples are parallel to length of the strip.Īround a door or window (reinforced felt) fitted into a door jamb so the door presses against it. Must be stapled, glued, or tacked into place. Plain or reinforced with a flexible metal strip sold in rolls. Some manufacturers include extra strip for door striker plate. Can increase resistance in opening/closing doors or windows. Bronze must be nailed in place (every three inches or so) so as not to bend or wrinkle. Can be difficult to install, as corners must be snug. Surfaces must be flat and smooth for vinyl. Look of bronze works well for older homes. Inside the track of a double-hung or sliding window, top and sides of door.ĭurable, invisible when in place, very effective. The shape of the material creates a seal by pressing against the sides of a crack to block drafts. Self-stick plastic (vinyl) folded along length in a V-shape or a springy bronze strip (also copper, aluminum, and stainless steel) shaped to bridge a gap. See table below for information about the common types of weatherstripping. Also take durability into account when comparing costs. You can use more than one type of weatherstripping to seal an irregularly shaped space. Metal weatherstripping can also provide a nice touch to older homes where vinyl might seem out of place. Metals (bronze, copper, stainless steel, and aluminum) last for years and are affordable. Vinyl, which is slightly more expensive, holds up well and resists moisture. ![]() However, the ease of applying these materials may make them valuable in low-traffic areas. Felt and open-cell foams tend to be inexpensive, susceptible to weather, visible, and inefficient at blocking airflow. ![]() The weatherstripping you choose should seal well when the door or window is closed but allow it to open freely.Ĭhoose a product for each specific location. Weatherstripping in a window sash must accommodate the sliding of panes - up and down, sideways, or out. ![]() For example, when applied to a door bottom or threshold, weatherstripping could drag on carpet or erode as a result of foot traffic. Using a pencil and a straightedge, draw a line to connect the corner marks that indicate where the door must be cut.Choose a type of weatherstripping that will withstand the friction, weather, temperature changes, and wear and tear associated with its location. Lay the door across a pair of sawhorses or a large bench or table, marked side up. If you’re a little worried about the precision of your measurements, err to the waste side-you can always cut a little more wood off, but you can’t add it once it’s gone.Ģ With a helper, tap out the hinge pins and remove the door from the hinge leaves. Mark the shoe’s position on the door so you will know where to trim. Almost close the door so that it presses against the shoe, and mark the shoe’s position on the door at each end. If in doubt about your ability to do this well, hire a finish carpenter.ġ Start by opening the door and setting the shoe in place on the threshold. ![]() If you?re not careful, you can scratch your door or-worse-ruin it with a poor cut. In most cases, you must trim the bottom of the door to allow for the extra thickness of the door shoe. Door shoe fastens to the bottom edge of an exterior door. ![]()
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